My Hair Regiment
My hair regiment isn’t quite a regiment just yet, but more of a routine. From time to time I like to break from routine to try something new (intentionally or induced by my laziness). I also feel that my “regiment” could still use some tweaking, so for now let’s call it a routine.
If you would like to know a little bit about my hair history, check it out here.
Now, although my routine works for me, that does not necessarily mean that it will work as well for you. There are several factors that go into the funky bits of protein we have growing out of our heads:
1. History: Chemical processes your hair has undergone, heat applied etc. The past has a way of coming to bite you in the present, and your hair is no exception, so take this into consideration when trying out my routine or any routine for that matter.
2. Genetics: I get it from my momma (and daddy). They way your hair curls, kinks, twists, lays downs, is flat or prone to dryness definitely has something to do with the genes that you received from your parents. At the end of the day, there is only “so much one can do” to fight their genetics, so understand the “limitations” of your hair when trying out this routine (or anyone’s routine). Note: Do not use the above statements to support such myths like, “Black hair cannot grow long” It is more in reference to trying to get your hair to curl or lay down like another natural’s hair.
3. Consistency: You can’t just try a routine for 4 weeks and determine results from that! I have been doing my routine for about 2.5 years now and I would say that in the past few months have I really seen my hair behave in ways that I have never would have thought possible. So keep it up! Give a routine a 3 month try (at least) but I would really consider 6 to 12 months.
Texture
Mostly 4A with a dab of 3C in the very back.
Staple Products
Nutiva Coconut Oil $10
Nature’s Gate Aloe Vera Conditioner $8
Nature’s Gate Henna Conditioner $8
Nature’s Gate Tea Tree Conditioner $8
Trader Joe’s Aloe Vera Gel $3
You already know I am about saving a couple of bucks! I would say that on a monthly basis, I spend on average around $20 on my hair products. The coconut oil lasts me a good 4 to 6 months and the Henna conditioner, I run through like water but that is because I have so much hair. I use about 1.5 to 2 bottles a month. The Tea Tree conditioner last about 8-10 weeks while the Aloe Vera conditioner can stretch as long as 2 months. The gel lasts for about 6 months (not a huge gel user).
Washing
I wash my hair every week. Since my hair tends to dry out quickly, I co-wash. I use Nature’s Gate Tea Tree Conditioner to cowash. Most naturals like to co-wash with a thin, cheaper conditioner. I really like to use this conditioner (even though it’s thick) because of the Tea tree. Tea tree stimulates the scalp and helps alleviate my dry scalp. Since admittedly, I am a product junkie, I am trying to incorporate using a a no sulfate shampoo every 4th or 5th week. I have used Deva No Poo in the past but recently bought a new one, so I will let you know how it goes.
Detangling
Unlike most naturals, I have put away the wide tooth comb/brush and have opted for the finger comb. It allows me to lose less hair since I am able to feel the knots and can take extra care to remove them. I use Nature’s Gate Henna Conditioner to detangle my hair. I will add Renpure Organics “” conditioner sometimes to add some slip.
Clarifying
Every 3 to 4 months I like to use bentonite clay to clarify my hair. Bentonite Clay is definitely messy, so prepare yourself for scrubbing down the old tub post rinse out. It is an Indian Healing Clay which apparently is also great for facials. I apply bentonite clay section by section to freshly washed and detangled hair. I allow it to sit for about 20 minutes with a plastic cap over my head. The great thing about using bentonite clay is that aside from removing product build up, it leaves your hair very soft as well provides incredible curl definition (disclaimer: it enhances the curl you have, doesn’t necessarily make a curl where there was no curl before).
Again, my bentonite clay (curly definition) results have improved over time since the better condition that my hair was in, the more it was able to exhibit a defined curl pattern.
Heat
It has been a minute since I have blow dried my hair, not that I have anything against applying heat to one’s hair. Moderation is key. I use to go under a heating cap every week for my deep condition treatment but I happened upon “baggying” (I like to call it the steaming method). It has provided comparable results and cuts out the heat. Last time I had my hair flat ironed, was May 2009.
Moisturizing
Every week I deep condition and just about every day I spray something in my hair (water, water and conditioner, or one of my oil-conditioner concoctions). After detangling, with the conditioner still sitting on my hair, I will simply throw a shopping bag over my head (taking care to make sure the plastic bag is not over my ears- that’s a great way to get an ear infection) and let it sit for an hour or so. I call this the steaming method but believe in the natural world it is called “baggying.” Love it..believe in it…you should try it! The natural body warmth released from your head captured in the plastic cap (inmy case shopping bag) kinda creates this steaming environment that, in my opinion, allows your hair to soak up all that moisturizing goodness.
To be honest, my scalp game isn’t where it should be but I am working on it. Jojoba oil is one of the best oils to use for your scalp since it is pretty similar to what is naturally created by your own glands. My hope is to eventually get a spray bottle and put some jojoba oil in it in order to spray down my parts post detangling rinse out. Will let you know how that goes.
Preserving the Pretty
Sleep! *Sigh* So hard to get mileage out of your hair sometimes (whether it is natural or not).
I bought myself a satin pillow case. For those who are not that great at tying up the hair at night with a satin head scarf, this is a good fail safe. I still tie my head at night (it’s the Guyanese in me) but tying also helps the halo of frizz that tends to develop throughout the day to lay flat.
I have recently been using a night technique that has really been helping my hair to stay moisturized. Any loose ends that I have out (from my puff or if I dare to wear my hair loose) I spray down with the concoction of the day (some sort of water, conditioner oil mix) and place inside of a plastic cap (or shopping bag!). If there is a tied up portion, I tie that with a satin head scarf to help the halo of frizz to lie down. In the morning, the ends look plump and curly, albeit shrunken as the week goes on.
Protective Styles/Loose Styles
Most of the time my hair is in protective styles (about 80 to 85% of the time) and most loose styles I sport in the summer when it is warmer and the elements are less harsh. My go to style is the puff in which I double a head band, and push it up, up, up to get a wide-based pony tail. I let the ends hang or if it is the winter time, I will pin it all around to create a huge bun.
When I’m in the mood, I also like to do medium to large sized two strand twists.
All together now!
I hop in the shower, usually on a Saturday morning, around 8am.
8am: Enter the shower. Wet down my hair. Divide my hair into 4 sections, applying my Nature’s Gate tea Tree conditioner along the parts. I then divide each of those 4 sections into 2, and apply the conditioner along those parts. I then apply conditioner to my hairline. I proceed to use the pads of my fingers to massage my scalp and gently remove any dirt/product build up from the previous week.
8:15ish: Rinse. If my scalp feels clean, I move on to conditioning (if it doesn’t, I repeat). I split my hair into 2 and apply disgustingly liberal amounts of conditioner to both sides of my hair. Steeped in conditioner, I take one half of my hair and begin to gently finger comb, just trying to remove any large knots. At this point, I do not really bother going further than halfway up the hair shaft. I finish one side, create a large two strand twist. I do the same to the other side. I then tie a knot on top of my head using the 2 large twists, similar to what you would do with a shopping bag!
8:40ish: I do my other shower rituals, which allows the conditioner some time to work into the hair shaft (the steam from my hot shower also doesn’t hurt the process).
9:00am: Depends how I’m feeling but usually I will detangle outside of the shower, with a large towel at my feet to catch the excess conditioner that collects and falls when I detangle my hair. I take the hair down, divide one side into 2. I take one of these smaller sections and then divide it into 2 again. I begin to detangle using my fingers. If I run into knots or a tough spot, I grab my spray bottle that contains water and conditioner. I spray the trouble area and work on it some more. I repeat across my whole head, twisting each section as I finish.
10ish: I stick my hair into a plastic cap (I’m going to be real with you, it’s likely a CVS, Shaws, Walgreens or Target bag). Allow my hair to marinate. Depends…usually I do an hour, but sometimes less.
11am: Hop in the shower, and rinse the hair out (twists are still in). I do not rinse all of the conditioner out, I usually leave a little in (I try to avoid having white spots of conditioner globs after this rinse out). Leaving some of the conditioner in allows my hair to maintain some of its curl definition. If I’m not trying to achieve that, I rinse thoroughly.
11:10ish: I’m ready to moisturize and style. I untwist each section and apply what I use as my leave in conditioner (Nature’s Gate Aloe Vera) as well as some coconut oil (Nutiva Coconut oil). I then style!
11:30ish: Finished!
Mind you I am being a little liberal with the time here, but I would say when I deep condition, the whole process does take about 2.5 hours and when I’m being a bum, about 1.5 to 2 hours. Mind you, I have a massive amount of hair on my head, so the time it would take you to do this routine may and probably will vary.
